Last year after the students left, my family and I went on several adventures that got me thinking - what might we learn by trying to approximate the sites and activities of early Bermudian settlers? This experiential learning germ grew over the winter in my mind and by early May, I had an excellent day planned out. For the past two weeks, the students have been trying to ferret out of me what they'd be doing, and speculating wildly when I refused to tell. Were they to be marooned on Smiths Island? Or somewhere even smaller? Did it involve sailing? Planting tobacco? Hunting for ambergris? On Sunday, the wait was over and we embarked on our Magical History Tour, Bermuda style...
Archaeologists' boat (above) vs. marine biologists' ship - humanities vs. STEM funding levels...
We boarded our boat and set off for Ferry Reach - because traveling by water was the most common mode of transportation in the early decades (just ignore the V4 engine in the stern) - destination UNKNOWN. After seeing the old ferry wharf, various forts, and shipbuilding sites along the way, we anchored at the Grotto Bay end of the Causeway and landed, ready to explore... Tom Moore's Jungle. This part of Bermuda between Castle Harbour and Harrington Sound is geologically the oldest, full of rock outcroppings and caves and with very little flat ground. 1610s Bermuda Company investors complained so loudly that they each got an extra five acres of land in St. David's to compensate them for the difficult topography of their Hamilton Parish shares. Their servants they sent fought a losing battle to clear the land and to this day the area remains densely wooded and sparsely developed.
Our first two caves - partly filled with seawater
Most of it is a Bermuda Government park and a Bermuda National Trust nature reserve, with a small tract in private hands - Tom Moore's Tavern, a very expensive, exclusive five-star restaurant in one of the earliest stone houses ever built in Bermuda (c. 1652). Our morning mission was to experience the forested landscape that early settlers would have encountered - and explore caves!
And they were never seen again...
Jonathan and Kristina - and a few albino lobsters by their ankles
After a very cool spelunk (if that's the right verb), we wended our way to a natural pool formed in the hollow made by a large collapsed cave... ...which happened to have a convenient cliff from which to jump.
A flying U of R Professor!
Three of the five of us partook of briefly defying gravity (the Fricker family accrued much honour). Jonathan threw down the gauntlet in a splash off, which was caught on video - but which Blogger will not let me upload!
UPDATE: Posted to YouTube:
Who will win? Watch to find out - and note the excuses!!!
After drying off and having lunch, we upped our game to bigger and more extensive caves deeper in the forest. The grand finale was a huge cave mostly filled with water that slants downward into utter darkness...
No gollum sightings, or Rings found - but lots of swimming
Afterwards, we emerged near Tom Moore's Tavern and saw this unique early building. Built around 1652 by Samuel Trott (the son of one of Bermuda's biggest landholders), the house has an unusual covered arched piazza flanking its original entry porch room. Note the tall narrow windows in this building - now sash but almost certainly originally diamond-pane casement windows like those on many 17th-century St. George's houses. From here we walked back to the boat via the main road, which just happened to take us past an ice cream parlour - and a slight lapse in our strict 17th c. dietary regimen. The truly epic part of the day came around 4:30, when we really made the leap into the early 17th century. Readers of this blog may recall that last year's field school helped work on a c. 1612 settler house reconstruction to gain insights into timber-frame architecture. Well, this house is now finished and Rick Spurling very kindly allowed us to spend the night in it in order to get in touch with living in the distant past. We even found some reenactor's costumes (a century or so off, but who's counting). Jonathan and Anima especially got into character!
We had an early dinner, complements of Somers Market, from which I screened all foods that had no plausible historical precedents for 1620s Bermuda but, amazingly, a lot of that night's offerings passed muster. Besides soldier's bread (dark wheat), we had roast lamb, cassava bread, mashed potatoes (they arrived in Bermuda c. 1617), and ginger bread - eaten with only knife, spoon, mug, and bowl (no forks! how 18th century!) communally around the table.
Ravenously doth they fall upon the repast to slake their hunger.
The next challenge was making a fire without lucifer sticks (matches) and gathering wood to sustain us through the night. Leigh became our targeted thermo-optical specialist and succeeded! With heat and light later assured, we banked the fire and walked to Clearwater Beach and Cooper's Island to catch a beautiful sunset - from the very spot that Christopher Carter (our Smiths Island hero) built his house after the Bermuda Company belatedly rewarded him for finding a fortune in whale barf (a long but very fun story).
It was fairly dark when we returned. In a very hobbit-like way, we embarked on preparing a second supper by candlelight on the open hearth. I had brought a variety of foods that early settlers would have had - flour, dried peas, potatoes, onions, carrots, salt cod, honey. We made a soup in the dutch oven and went stargazing on the hill behind Carter House while it simmered. Eating by candlelight was truly amazing, a great end to a challenging day.
Bedding was the last challenge we faced, since the Settler House had none. Historically, it would have had a half loft for its residents, but alas we had only a dirt floor. Jonathan said he only woke up once. Leigh said she didn't sleep a wink. The rest of us fell somewhere in between...
My makeshift bed - basically a Boy Scouts stretcher using a sheet
We had Monday off for all to recover and reacclimate ourselves to the 21st century: mostly we slept but a few who suffered internet withdrawal binged. We were back digging today and made some amazing finds, but that entry will have to wait until tomorrow...
Smiths Island field school students may not appreciate it, but they are the intellectual grand-children of Marley R. Brown III, long-time Director of Archaeological Research at Colonial Williamsburg and an important mentor to me as a graduate student at William and Mary in the 1990s. I recently returned from an all-day symposium reflecting on Marley's contributions to the field at this year's Society for Historical Archaeology Conference in Seattle. It was great to catch up with old friends and digging buddies from Williamsburg, Jamestown, Martin's Hundred, and Bermuda as we reflected on a career spent in service of advancing theory and field methods in archaeology. The fact that so many of us are tenured professors and established scholars speaks volumes to the rigorous training and tremendous opportunities that Marley crazily bestowed upon young untried (and in my case, somewhat undisciplined) grad students. The symposium made me reflect on how the Good Dr. Brown has sh...
Hard to believe, but we are just five months from the start of the 2018 field school! If you are interested in participating, click on the new Field School tab above for information and how to apply. I will be spending the spring at the John Carter Brown Library in Providence, Rhode Island, working on making an interactive GIS map of Richard Norwood's 1663 survey of Bermuda, and if all goes well, a walkable 3D version of the island in 1663 in Unity. In doing housekeeping among my many old hard drives, I came upon a video we shot on the last day of the 2010 reconnaissance, showing the very first unit we excavated, and our three-person field crew! "From small acorns mighty oaks grow..." (Benjamin Franklin)
In a normal year, the Smiths Island Archaeology field school would be halfway finished at this moment. The students would be finishing up their collective work (standardized training, really) at Oven Site and dispersing into smaller teams at the other sites - Cave, Smallpox, perhaps the dock/wharf complex at Pitcher's Point. This year, however, we have suspended operations in order to catch up on database and paperwork and also for me to further develop some of my other research projects - particularly Virtual St. George's, which will feature 3D historicized reconstructions of Bermuda's first capital at various moments in the town's four-hundred-year history, developed using a videogame engine. Indeed, during a flying research visit in February, I shot more than 19,000 photographs to use in this digital reconstruction, and I supervised several students creating ArcGIS layer maps for St. George's in 1750, 1775 and 1815. Seaward facing side of Elmina, Portuguese from...
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